Introduction
Just like many people not from New York City, I have never heard of a chopped cheese sandwich until a year ago. I had visited New York many times prior, but it was not until I fell upon New York Youtuber, Fanum, that I figured out that the chopped cheese sandwich existed. Fanum represents Bronx culture to the fullest and it just happens to be that he is munching on a chopped cheese in a good amount of his videos. From watching some of his videos like NYC HOOD MUKBANG and WE WENT TO THE BEST RATED DELI IN NEW YORK CITY, I learned what constitutes a proper chopped cheese. The sandwich consists of ground beef grilled with onions, topped with melted American cheese, and served with lettuce, tomatoes, ketchup, and mayo on a hero roll.
When I went back to New York City to visit my brother, I made it a goal of mine to try a real NYC chopped cheese. After reading a few articles about the best chopped cheese in New York, Haji’s Deli, also known as Harlem Taste, was the one that popped up in every single article I read. Once I tried the chopped cheese for the first time at Haji’s, I understood why it was such a beloved sandwich. It was the epitome of simple but delicious. The beef and melted cheese were savory and rich, the lettuce and tomato were refreshing and crisp, and the hero roll was nicely toasted on the outside, yet chewy on the inside. The sandwich was tasty, very satisfying, and quite affordable.
Rosenberg, Eli. Picture of Haji’s Deli. The New York Times. November 7, 2016. https://www.nytimes.com/2016/11/08/nyregion/chopped-cheese-sandwich-harlem.html
The History
When it comes to the invention of the chopped cheese there is no one definite answer or elaborate story. There are, however, two main theories.
The first theory is that an individual by the name of Carlos Soto, a worker at Haji’s Deli for over 20 years prior to his passing in 2014, created the chopped cheese in 1996. Some ideas regarding how he made the chopped cheese include: Carlos running out of circular buns and deciding to chop up his cheeseburger to fit a hero roll and Carlos having dental issues so he attempted to make his burger easier to chew by chopping it up. His unintentional masterpiece stayed put at Haji’s deli for 10 years after its creation before it spread to deli’s and corner stores throughout Harlem and the Bronx.
Rosenberg, Eli. Picture of Carlos Soto. The New York Times. November 7, 2016. https://www.nytimes.com/2016/11/08/nyregion/chopped-cheese-sandwich-harlem.html
The second theory involves the adaptation of dagha yamneeya, an Arabic sandwich consisting of chopped meat and vegetables served on Yemeni bread, into the chopped cheese. Many believe that as many Arabic individuals moved to New York City in the 1970s and 1980s, they opened up bodegas and corner stores throughout the city. In their new stores, they introduced an Americanized version of dagha yamneeya, which now resembles the chopped cheese.
Depending on where you’re at, and who you talk to, you might get a completely different story regarding the origins of the chopped cheese. No matter the birthplace of the sandwich, it eventually spread to many delis in Harlem and the Bronx and continues to be an essential bodega menu item.
Cultural Meaning
The chopped cheese is more than just a sandwich to many New Yorkers, it’s a culture. To begin with, the chopped cheese is very accessible. Practically at every corner in Harlem or the Bronx, you can find a bodega serving a chopped cheese amongst a plethora of other deli sandwiches. This dish’s popularity can also be attributed to its price point, usually coming in anywhere from $3.50 – $5.00. Regardless of income, any person can swoop by a corner store and grab a chopped cheese meal for dinner. Locals have also made it clear that the chopped cheese is a phenomenal sandwich to have at around 3 am after having a few too many drinks.
The chopped cheese has established itself as a prominent icon synonymous with hood culture. Dave East, a rapper from Harlem, shouts out Haji’s in his song Nino, when he raps, “Soon as I step out my building, they like I need that
Hajis for dinner, them Chopped Cheese I still eat that”. Washington Height’s rapper, Audubon, literally wrote a song called Chopped Cheese. Amongst numerous lyrical shoutouts and music video cameos, the chopped cheese and establishments related to it have been featured in a multitude of television shows as well. Anthony Bourdain tried the chopped cheese in his show Parts Unknown: The Bronx, where a group of Bronx students shared with him their deli favorites.
What really is interesting is that a majority of New Yorkers don’t know what a chopped cheese is. It is such a beloved item in the Bronx, Harlem, and some parts of Queens, but outside of these locations, it is not nearly as popular.
Controversy
Multiple higher-end restaurants have decided to recreate the chopped cheese in a more elevated manner. The Meat Hook, a butcher shop in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, used fresh tomatoes, marrow butter, and banana peppers for their variation. At another butcher shop in the Upper West Side of Manhattan, White Gold, a chopped cheese rendition is also being served for the significantly increased price of $11. All of these fancier variations of the chopped cheese have sparked heated debates amongst many communities. Individuals who grew up with this cheap and delicious hood delicacy believe that the sandwich shouldn’t be remade into something else. It should be honored and respected as it is, not modified into a fancy hipster sandwich for a much higher price.
Raisfeld, Robin. Patronite, Rob. Picture of White Gold Chopped Cheese. Grub Street. August 22, 2016. https://www.grubstreet.com/2016/08/april-bloomfield-chopped-cheese-sandwich-white-gold.html
Conclusion
The chopped cheese is a sacred sandwich to many. It is synonymous with hood culture, making multiple appearances in songs, music videos, and TV shows. It is also a sandwich with an unknown history. No one has a correct answer in regards to who or how the chopped cheese was created. But that just adds to its meaning. The uncertainty, the different theories, all just lead to deeper discussions regarding this delicious dish. Commonly only served in a few New York burrows, this sandwich should really not be messed with unless you are willing to take on a heap of criticism. Even a few fancy alterations disrupt what the sandwich should be, a cheap and delicious bodega classic that should be preserved in its purest form.
If you enjoyed this post, check out my last food opinion piece on Why a Long Restaurant Menu May Be a Red Flag.
